The ocean is just another dimension of life, of existence. I can't imagine not having that. I traveled a bit, and it just adds a whole other dimension to travel. It's like you travel on the land, you see all that, but then in the water——that's just magical.

I’m turning 60 in a couple of weeks, on Halloween. 

I’ve been surfing for more than 50 years. Started when I was 8 years old, down in Santa Barbara. Surfing now, it's about finding peace in life. It gets my blood flowing. It challenges me; it makes me feel a lot. And it's my mental therapy too; it keeps me sane. 

And spiritually, I think for me, it puts everything into perspective—in terms of living and dying. There's a mortality part of it, but it just clears everything out, just all the noise sort of goes away, and it's like you and the wave. 

When I come out here, I never take it for granted. I'll take what it gives me and do the most with that. And I feel blessed. 

You never know what's gonna happen. A while back we were out here and a bunch of dolphins were swimming around us, and then a freaking 30-inch salmon jumped in my lap! I'm like, That's it. The rest of my day is good.