Three years ago, I went and surfed by myself on my 43rd birthday, and it was this morning when there were dolphins, which always just makes the whole session. And at Ocean Beach if I get one wave, that’s great. I don't ever expect a big wave count. And that day, it was just one of those days where the waves were just creamy, they were soft. I was getting wave after wave. And I was like, giggling to myself, because it was so — I just couldn't even believe it. I was counting. And I stopped counting at 15. I thought, this might never again happen. It was like a beam from heaven shining down on me, and it was my birthday.

You know, sometimes just everything aligns. I'm also at a place in my life where I'm feeling a lot of guidance from my ancestor spirits, and noticing more and more the interplay with them and that kind of soft guiding hand in my life. My family's from Sweden and Denmark, so there’s a lot of connection to the water, so it makes sense. 

I would say surfing is my mental health tonic. I'm a water person, so I just need it. I go out a few times a week, and it just keeps me balanced. When I’m surfing I feel present, like I’m part of something much bigger than myself. It puts everything into perspective, being in the vastness.