Stories of surfing and of navigating the waves of middle age.
“Why did it take me so long to find surfing—and how long can I enjoy it?”
"I don't think that most people seek out that feeling actively in life, meaning, ‘I want to go do a thing over and over again in which I fail.’
"In clowning, you wait for the next laugh to be generated, and then ride the laugh until it dies. And go back again to zero and start again. Yeah, it’s the same thing with the waves. …”
“When I was younger it was always about next time and improving. And now I just realize, I have no idea! I have no idea what next time will hold …”
"I would say surfing is my mental health tonic. I'm a water person, so I just need it."
"I’ve been surfing for more than 50 years. Surfing now, it's about finding peace in life."
"I feel graceful when I'm on the water. My body just knows how to do this."
"I know something will be there when I need it. The breath of air will be there when I need it."
“I've had to learn to slow down, to map what my body is responding to in this oceanic power ...”
“I think it’s all about overcoming the obstacles that Mother Nature provides.”
“In my middle age I’m trying to do less ruminating or replaying my life choices ..."